When I landed in Ahmedabad last August, I had my doubts about the gastronomical habits of this old city. Coming from Mumbai, famed for its cosmopolitan food platter right from ‘Idlis’ and ‘Dosas’ for breakfast to ‘paneer tikka’ and ‘butter chicken’ for lunch; wholesome ‘poha’ for an evening snack to a nice plate of steamed rice and fish for dinner, Ahmedabad seemed to be a complete disappointment. However, after a year and quarter in this city and discovering the eateries here, I would certainly like to take back my words. Ahmedabad is a complete paradise for foodies, and this is by no stretch of imagination, a hyperbole.
The city houses host of eating joints right from ‘Labela’, famed for an old Goanese aunt’s non vegetarian offerings within the expanses of her dingy household to ‘Bhatiyar Galli’, serving over 100 varieties of ‘Halwas’ in a single day ranging from the regular ‘dal’ and ‘gajar’ varieties to innovative ‘anda’ and ‘chiku halwa’. The city dishes out the rarest of dishes from around the world, which is a bit of surprise taking into consideration that Ahmedabad as such is not in the same league as a Mumbai or a Delhi and hence doesn’t cater to a cosmopolitan crowd from across the world. Having said that, I hope the reader does understand that not all of them are worth a visit, as few of these guys have got their recipes horribly wrong. For instance, when I was new to this city I happen to come across a ‘vada pav’ vendor in one of the by-lanes of C.G.Road. Coming from Mumbai I do have a special feeling for this Indian burger which I think I share with every other fellow Mumbaite. When I asked for a ‘vada pav’ the vendor asked ‘butter or oil?’ I couldn’t comprehend as I didn’t associate such questions being asked when you ask for a simple ‘vada pav’. I happen to choose butter over oil and what followed left me completely dumbstruck. Instead of simply putting the ‘vada’ into the ‘pav’ with ‘chutney’ this guy put the entire assembly into a pan along with hot butter, making the ‘vada pav’ completely drenched in butter with the ‘chutney’ all spread over it. As you probably might understand, this certainly wasn’t a pleasant experience when someone has horribly messed up with the recipe you are dead sure of. However, over the time, I have slowly assimilated the food culture over here and developed a liking for it too.
Now as I leave this city for good, as a tribute to the Ambawadis and their eateries, I would like to enlist ‘ten places in this city you must eat’. These might not be in any particular order of preference; however each one of them deserves at least a single visit by every foodie who comes across this piece of text and is visiting the city any time soon. Please take note that the following list is that of personal favorites and the reader might not agree with the author’s choice post his/her firsthand experience at these eateries; however it would be highly appreciated if these joints/restaurants are given their due chance to impress the connoisseurs of good food, travelling to the city of Ahmedabad. So enjoy…
1. Manek Chowk, old city, Ahmedabad: This place comes to life when the rest of the city settles for a cozy sleep post dinner. After 35 odd years of nocturnal existence battling the wrath of the police and other not-so-pleasant events, this place truly impresses. As the name suggests, it is a ‘chowk’ engulfed between the age old ‘pols’ (colonies) and ‘chabutras’ (pigeon house) where the ‘thelawalas’ do their business. Talking of the business of food, these guys offer a range of culinary delights from the regular stuff like ‘pav-bhaji’ and ‘vegetable biryani’ to the most amazing servings like ‘basket chaat’, ‘drum kulfi’, ‘ice cream sandwich’, ‘chocolate sandwich’ and ‘éclair sandwich’! And all of this at a good deals, monetarily speaking. I could never think of sandwich being served as a desert, but must say, these guys have done the union beautifully. When you come out of this place there’s this ‘Andawala’ stationed across the main road, and believe me, this guy serves the most amazing variations of egg. This guy is famed for his ‘Dabba’, ‘Parda’ and ‘VIP’ which are basically combinations of boiled and fried egg done differently. A complete must have…
2. Vishala, Sarkhej Road, Ahmedabad: This is one place where you must eat, if you are to enjoy typically Gujarati cuisine. The moment you enter this place, the reception counter flaunts pictures of their distinguished clientele from Sachin Tendulkar to Yuvraj Singh to Narendra Modi to Vilasrao Desmukh. The who’s who of this country has visited this place and I think one shouldn’t miss out on this place when in the city. The place hosts a museum housing antique collectibles from traditional Gujarati kitchen. As for the food, it’s simply amazing. A generous helping of Gujarati/Rajasthani buffet in the open environs of Vishala, resting on the half-cut oak wood tables and low seated stools, this place is worth every penny that you spend here. Oh, by the way I forgot to mention about the traditional ‘khatiya’ placed there for the guests to rest and catch a quick nap post a wholesome and heavy meal.
3. Rajwadu, Ahmedabad: Again, very much on the lines of Vishala, this joint scores very high on the ambience quotient. If you are in Ahmedabad and wish to enjoy traditional Kathiyawadi/Gujarati/ Rajasthani meal and have a nice time while enjoying your meal; do visit this place. The restaurant is divided into two sections i.e. the fixed thali and the ala-carte section. As for the entertainment part, the place houses a Rajasthani puppet show, a ‘madari’ and monkey show and a library cum book shop for Gujarati books. A perfect setting for a laid back evening. And rest assured, the food here is amazingly finger licking. Great ambience, amazing food, good fun… what more can you ask for?
4. Little Italy, S.G. Highway, Ahmedabad: Moving on from the traditional bouquet of restaurants to Italian stuff, here comes ‘Little Italy, Ristorante Italiano’. If you are in a mood of a nice cozy dinner with your partner and wish to enjoy traditional Italian cuisine, this is the place for you. The restaurant looks like a house behind a petrol pump on S.G. Highway and serves amazingly delicious pastas, panini’s, croquets and pizzas. The tables here are so arranged that where ever you sit, you happen to look across the window pane to a nice expanse of lush green lawn lit under moon light. The only complain I have of this place is that it’s a bit high priced. However, this shouldn’t deter anyone from making at least a single visit to this place. So, happy dining!
5. Barbeque Nation, drive-in road, Ahmedabad: A complete fiesta for barbeque lovers. It is a kind of theme restaurant designed for barbeque lovers. The barbeque is placed on your table and you are supposed to cook the delicacies yourself on your table. Doesn’t it sound cool? You would be marinating the skewers of vegetarian and non vegetarian kebabs placed on the barbeque on your table with various sauces and syrups. The main course here is just about good or probably after such wholesome starters one doesn’t really feel like savoring onto the main course. However, one must not give the deserts here a miss. The deserts here are amazing and you can take my word on that. So cutting the long story short, if you are in the city make sure you don’t miss this place.
6. Ikobo Sizzlers, drive-in road, Ahmedabad: Right across the street, opposite Barbeque Nation, you’ll find another haven for sizzlers on the first floor called Ikobo. If you love sizzlers and the likes, this is the place for you. The food here is something you can swear by specially the non vegetarian stuff. My personal favorite here is the Chicken sizzler in oyster sauce served with a decent helping of chicken salad. A perfect place to dine out with a special someone in a cold winter night. Reminds me of my good old days in Ahmedabad…
7. Patang, Nehru Bridge, Ahmedabad: This is one of the landmark restaurants in Ahmedabad as it is the only revolving restaurant in Ahmedabad. Yes, you did get it right; the dining space revolves, giving the guests a perfect view of the city at a height of over 250 ft. This place is adjacent to Sabarmati River and Nehru Bridge; and when you overlook the well lit bridge across the river from this restaurant, the view is nothing less than breath taking. The food here is not so great, to be blatantly honest. However the ambience more than makes up for it, and you can trust me on that. If you’re looking for an experience, this is the place you want to be in.
8. Agashiye Restaurant, House of MG, Ahmedabad: I happen to experience this place at the fag end of my stay in Ahmedabad and I would like to state that had I not been to this place, my stay in Ahmedabad would have been incomplete. It is one of the bouquet of eateries offered at the House of MG and by far the best of the lot. It is a terrace restaurant catering to the foreigners’ crowd visiting this city, which explains the exorbitant cost as well. The place offers unlimited thali with the starters and drinks served in a picturesque terrace garden which is ornated with a rose pool where an idol of lord Ganesha rests. This place gives out such positive vibes that you actually cherish the time spent in here. This place overlooks the old city clock which all the more adds to a strange nostalgic feeling that you experience here. Words fail me to describe this place; I think one must visit this place to experience what I can’t explain…
9. Haute Peppers, Off S.G. Highway, Ahmedabad: If you’re simply looking for amazing food from varied cuisines right from Gujarati to Lebanese, served with a tinge of sophistication; you’re at the right place. Located right above the Crossword Store on S.G. Highway, the interiors here are as good as the food served here. My personal favorite here is the Spinach soup; I’ve never tasted a better soup in the last 24 years of my existence. So, don’t think too much, just visit this place in the best of your attire and munch onto the delicacies here.
10. Gopi/ Sasuji, Ahmedabad: When I say Gopi or Sasuji, I refer to all the restaurants of similar kind which are so synonymous to the culture of this city, which includes Govardhan Thal along with the two mentioned above. The USP of these restaurants are the Gujarati and Kathiyavadi thalis that they serve which are cheap and amazingly tasty. And the people at these places and unbelievably hospitable which all the more enriches your experience at these places. If you’re 11/10 hungry, these are the places for you J
The list here is not an exhaustive one as Ahmedabad is a haven for foodies and this place has amazing number of restaurants and eateries which although did not break into this list but are still worth a visit. For example Shocolatory, The Basil, The Biryani House, La Fiesta, Khyber, The Oriental Express and others. Had the list been of top twenty (T20) eateries in Ahmedabad, it would’ve been so much more easier. I hope the reader of this article enjoys each of these places which I had the pleasure of experiencing. So, Happy Dining…